The North Yorkshire Heritage Coast

We have already described the Cleveland Coast which stretches from Redcar to Boulby Cliff. To the south of this, a long stretch of the coast described in our guide (from Boulby nearly to Scarborough), falls within the North York Moors National Park. Boulby is an appropriate point at which to separate the two, being the highest point, at 209 metres (690 ft). This southern stretch, plus the few extra miles down to Scarborough's boundary, has been identified as a Heritage Coast worthy of special protection.

A further length of coast, south of Filey to Flamborough Head (which is itself now protected), has been proposed as a Heritage Coast; and the well-known, long distance footpath, the Cleveland Way, follows our coast from Saltburn to Filey. The 35 miles (57 km) of Heritage Coast from Saltburn to Scarborough are subject to greater recreational pressure than any other part of the North York Moors National Park. Special provision will therefore have to be made if this area, and indeed the rest of our coastline, is to remain beautiful, interesting and yet part of a living community. While nature undoubtedly controls our coastline to a very large extent, man has, over the centuries, made a permanent and often pleasant contribution, particularly in coastal settlements such as Staithes and Robin Hood's Bay.

Our brief survey extends from Staithes to Scarborough and includes the most dramatic and picturesque sections of this ancient coastline. The coast is dominated by rugged cliffs cut by occasional valleys that sweep down to the shore. Boulby Cliff, near Staithes, and Speeton Cliffs, near Flamborough, have little besides their height in common. Boulby Cliff, formed from dark grey shale, still shows the scars of C17th and C18th quarrying operations, while Speeton Cliffs, composed of brilliant white chalk, provide the nesting sites for thousands of seabirds. Beyond Staithes, the cliffs continue past Port Mulgrave (a grand title for so small a place), which grew up during the iron-mining boom of the C19th when ore from the Grinkle mines was moved the two miles to the port by narrow-gauge railway via three tunnels. Today the terraced miners' houses remain, though the harbour is decaying. There are fine views both here and at Runswick Bay, the first real bay on our length of coastline. This attractive little village, with its houses dispersed over the hillside, was, like Staithes, originally developed as a fishing community, but today draws a large proportion of its income from the tourist trade. Runswick has proud memories, such as 1901 when, during a storm, the fishwives launched the lifeboat themselves to save their husbands. In the spring storms of 1682, virtually the whole village sank towards the sea, but all the residents escaped. The bay is well known to fossil hunters and artists.

Sandsend, as the name suggests, is where the sand finishes when travelling up the coast from Whitby. For us, therefore, it is where the sand begins, continuing for over 21⁄2 miles. Whitby itself is unique. Its situation, facing due north on the east coast, backed by the high moorlands of north-east Yorkshire and dissected by the River Esk, has had a tremendous effect on the development and history of the town. The remains of the great Abbey on the east cliff overlook a town which, in many ways, has not changed for centuries. Evidence of its early jet, whaling and fishing industries can still be seen - along with reminders of some of its famous people: Captain Cook, Captain William Scoresby, George Stephenson and Frank Meadow Sutcliffe. For those interested in our past heritage, Whitby is an essential port of call. The clifftop walk from the Abbey to Saltwick Nab is probably the most heavily used section of cliff path on this coastline.

From the old alum works of Saltwick, we can continue south-east to Robin Hood's Bay, yet another gem on the Yorkshire Coast. This village, typical of most along the coast, is crowded onto the banks of a ravine which gives access to the shore. The bay itself is, after Filey Bay, the largest on the Yorkshire Coast. Carved into some of the oldest rocks in our area, it sweeps round in a huge crescent from North Cheek to Ravenscar in the south. Apart from the village, the bay is well known for its rich marine life, one reason why a marine laboratory has been established here. The imposing headland of Ravenscar is capped with a fine building whose castellated walls can be seen over three miles away at Bay Town. Once again the tremendous cliffs decrease in height as we move south, passing a number of 'wykes' - small indentations along the coastline. Hayburn Wyke and Cloughton Wyke are two of the best known of these small bays. Crossing Scalby Beck, we come to the outskirts of the popular holiday resort of Scarborough with its prominent headlands and sweeping bays.

The people of the coast have long traditions associated with the sea, including exploration and navigation, whaling, fishing, smuggling and, in more recent times, the trades and crafts connected with tourism. Here, then, is a mere cameo of the Yorkshire Coast; a library could not contain all there is to know.

CAPTAIN COOK & STAITHES HERITAGE CENTRE
HIGH STREET, STAITHES, NEAR WHITBY, NORTH YORKSHIRE, TS13 5BQ
TEL: 01947 841454 www.captaincookatstaithes.co.uk

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